SKIRT, W Singapore Sentosa Cove (2018) – More Than Just Steaks at “The Boldest Grill”

Entering its 6th year of operation, SKIRT at W Singapore Sentosa Cove has reinvented itself as “the boldest grill” as it seeks to move out of the typical steakhouse stereotype. Its latest menu offers a smattering of European dishes with a distinct Asian influence. Think “laksa octopus” or carpaccio flavored with a dash of saffron yuzu. Regulars who come all the way to Sentosa Cove to sample SKIRT’s steaks will be relieved to find that the meats are still there, albeit with less variety than before. Despite all these changes, the venue has retained its intimate and quiet nature – perfect for dates or small business gatherings.

The new menu at SKIRT comes from Chef Justin Dingle Garciyya who came in as culinary director in late 2017 after having stints in various properties in Australia, New York, Miami and Qatar; including some Michelin-starred restaurants.

I started dinner with the Truffled Beef Tartare (S$28), a dish that is usually only available during SKIRT’s Saturday lunch menu. It is an interesting take on your usual beef tartare. The raw meat is interspersed with pieces of rice crispies. Bits of chipotle aioli add a smoky flavor. You won’t find as much meat here as in your usual beef tartare but I quite enjoyed the juxtaposition of textures.

The Sri Lankan Crab and Caviar (S$32) is here presented with shellfish broth. The soups’ creamy texture evokes comparisons with lobster bisque while the crab here comes gratinated.

Always sure to generate oohs and aahs, few other venues do it quite like SKIRT. Among the dishes in the current menu, I must say the one that really piqued my interest in terms of visual presentation was the Bone Marrow Escargot (S$45). It’s a delicious but sinful affair – you’ll find the plump pieces of escargot inside the bone dripping in Cafe de Paris butter.

Speaking of sinful affairs, the Veal Sweetbread and Foie Gras (S$38) is another option within a similar vein. I found the foie gras here firmer than what I’m used to.

A decent meal at SKIRT would not be complete without trying one of its steaks and that night, we were treated to an off-menu item. The Grilled Cape Grim Sirloin uses the same cut as the Black Market Sirloin (S$82) but came brimming with sauce vierge. The meat was delightfully tender, with the fibers collapsing consistently with the slice of a knife. I’ve tried a number of steaks at SKIRT and while my preference is still for the Wagyu Steak, the Sirloin is a great all-around choice as well.

I sampled a variety of sides as well which mostly had minor refreshes from their past versions. These included the Broccolini al Plancha (S$11) which no longer had the sakura ebi that it used to. The Duck Fat Mashed Potatoes (S$15) is also a slight update from the Truffled Mash which used to grace SKIRT’s menu. Among the sides, I have to say I was partial to the Lobster Mac and Cheese (S$19) which is a luxurious version of this American classic.

By this time, I was already full to the brim but I still allowed some tummy space for the Banana Pistachio Pizza (S$18). The “pizza” is essentially a skinny version of the pistachio tart. The flatness allowed for it to be appreciated despite its relatively huge size, with a nice crunch upon each bite. It’s topped with vanilla ice cream – a nice cool contrast to the fresh-from-the-oven warmth of the tart.

Check out SKIRT’s menu HERE

SKIRT
W Singapore – Sentosa Cove
21 Ocean Way Sentosa
Singapore 098374

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